I just got back from what was one of the best weeks of my life. I learned so much, had a ton of new experiences, and got to eat some of the best food on the planet for a week straight. All heavily subsidized by Arcadia, amen!! Here’s a run-down of my trip:
We got in late Saturday (March 9) night, got checked into the hotel, and went straight to bed. Addis Ababa is 8 hours ahead of Philadelphia, so it felt like the middle of the afternoon to us, but after our 17 hour flight, we were exhausted.
Sunday was our first full day in the city. We had breakfast at the hotel, where they had a small buffet of hard boiled eggs, firfir (strips of injera bread mixed with a tomato sauce), bread, fruit, and coffee.

As expected, the coffee was fantastic. I could drink it black, and usually you couldn’t pay me anything downwards of $1mil to do that. After breakfast, we headed out on the bus to visit Emperor Menelik II’s palace on Mount Entoto.
You may remember him from my last post-he led Ethiopians to victory over the Italians in the Battle of Adwa in 1896, preventing them from every being fully colonized. He and his wife, Empress Taitu, lived in this palace.
Here are two of my friends, Jordan and Amaya. They were in London with me in the fall and I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to travel with them again to Ethiopia. Our adorable tour guide offered to take a picture of us and I thought they turned out well 🙂 
Ethiopia is a fairly religious country and the main religion is Ethiopian Orthodoxy. We are currently in the month of Lent, and this was on a Sunday, which means there were a ton of people at the church next door. It was a beautiful church, brightly painted and designed in a typical fashion.
After visiting the palace and church, we headed down the hill and were able to get out and take in the stunning view of Addis.

On the way down, we stopped at a little village where we got to take some more pictures. Some little boys from the village led us through a small forest to take us to a cave that used to be a church in the 13th century.
We then went to the Holy Trinity Cathedral, near the Ethiopian Parliament building.

The paintings in the church interested me because they were a mixture of secular and non-secular paintings. The picture in the middle of the left-hand side depicts Emperor Haile Selassie I addressing the League of Nations in an attempt to get aid to defend Ethiopia from fascist Italian aggression in 1936. Fun fact: he was turned down because the major powers were wary of ticking Italy off right before WWII, because they needed Italy’s help in the fight against Hitler. That worked out well. The Italians invaded Ethiopia and stayed until 1941, when they had to pull out to focus on WWII.
After seeing the church, we headed down to the Empress Taitu Hotel for lunch. This was the first hotel in Addis Ababa and is very famous.

The lunch was a fantastic, traditionally Ethiopian fasting lunch. As I mentioned before, Ethiopia is a very religious country, and many people in the Orthodox church fast during Lent. For them, fasting is eating vegan food. In the US, people often think of vegan food as being gray, all made out of kale, or just kind of nasty in general. I can confidently say that if this food was readily available in the States, I would be able to go vegan. It was amazing and I miss it already. Also, Ethiopians love Coca-Cola. Ads for Coke were everywhere and these bottles were available everywhere we went. After lunch, we took a walking tour of the Piassa neighborhood of Addis. It was a very old and poor area, and really showed us what life was like for most citizens of the city. We got to see where our professor’s husband grew up and got to feel like a racial minority, which for most of us was a new experience. Many people stopped and stared at this group of largely white college kids walking down the street, some people took pictures of us, and some guy on a motorcycle took of his shirt, waved it around in the air, and yelled “WHITE FOOOOLLLLLKKKSSS!!!!!” as he drove by. Personally, I thought that was funny. Many people were simply happy to see tourists in their city and welcomed us to Addis. It was a great experience and one that I will remember for a long time. I didn’t get to take a ton of pictures, but here are a couple that I did get:
The peppers on the tarp are being dried to make a powdered spice called bevere, which is in many Ethiopian dishes.
The walk through Piassa was very difficult for all of us. We knew that we would see extreme poverty in Ethiopia and we knew that it would be uncomfortable and heartbreaking. However, knowing these things as a hypothetical is much different than seeing them right before your eyes. One of the most important things I realized during this week was how wealthy I really am, especially when speaking in a global sense. In the United States, I wouldn’t describe myself as wealthy. I wouldn’t describe myself as poor, either, but in the developed country in which we live, we don’t belong to the upper class. In Ethiopia, I felt extremely wealthy and extremely privileged. I’ve never felt that on such a large scale before and I will remember that feeling for the rest of my life. It made me only more sure that I want to spend the rest of my life helping these people and working to lessen the inequalities in our world today.
That night, we went to dinner at a (fairly touristy) restaurant called Habesha 2000. In the restaurant, they had a stage where musicians and dancers performed traditional music and dance from all over Ethiopia. It was really interesting, as I had no knowledge of the traditional music and dance from this part of the world.
The food was, again, fantastic. Spoiler: I did not have one bad meal during my week.

The next day, Monday March 11, was devoted largely to museums. We started off with a security briefing at the United States Embassy. While I’ve always wondered what an embassy is like and while I really enjoyed the opportunity to see what the building was like from the inside, we didn’t actually need the briefing, as our professor had already told us everything the man had to say (watch out for pickpockets, don’t go out by yourselves at night if you don’t have to, etc.) and the briefing he gave us was more for State Department employees than a school group. They took our phones away so no pictures. We then rode to the National Museum of Ethiopia, where the main attraction is Lucy, the first humanoid skeleton ever found. She was found in northern Ethiopia and is a point of pride for many Ethiopians. There were artifacts from the prehistoric era, from many emperors and empresses, and then there was a modern art exhibit displaying art surrounding the history and culture of Ethiopia done by contemporary Ethiopian artists.
We ate lunch at the Lucy Cafe, right next to the restaurant. Guess what I ordered?
It was a really nice lunch and I got to talk and bond with many of my classmates. Also, I randomly ripped off this piece of injera and it looks just like the outline of Ukraine. I don’t know how I noticed that, but it’s true.

After lunch, we walked about a mile to Addis Ababa University. Along the way, many people stared and said hi to us. One man even walked by me with a huge smile on his face, high-fived me, and called me “sister.” It was cute. At the university, we (randomly) met an American man who was part of the “repatriation” program that Haile Selassie had started. The aim of the program was to “repatriate” people in the African diaspora, that is, people of African heritage living outside of Africa, back to an African country-namely, Ethiopia. He was from the United States, had played on the 49ers and Vikings, and was now living in Ethiopia and had started an NBA for the country, where there was previously just local basketball leagues. It was really interesting to hear from a person who had taken part in a program we had heard vaguely about and he was really excited to see a group of American students coming to Ethiopia to learn about the country. The museum inside the university was interesting, but what really intrigued me was an exhibit showing what rape victims were wearing when they were raped. These kinds of installations are becoming popular (“popular”) worldwide, but I’ve never seen one in real life. It was extremely heavy and was the focal point for me and many other girls on the trip in the museum. One of the victims was just seven years old when she was raped by her own father. Hearing about what these women and girls have faced and knowing that this is a global problem was heartbreaking.
Moving on, the next day we first visited the Red Terror Martyrs Museum. I didn’t know this before taking the class, but Ethiopia was ruled by a Communist government from 1974-1991. In 1974, Emperor Haile Selassie was deposed and replaced by what was called the “Derg.” The Derg carried out a political genocide called the “Red Terror” after coming to power against any and all real or perceived political prisoners. The number of victims varies, but estimates range from 10,000 up to 100,000. The museum showed graphic images of victims, artifacts from Haile Selassie, information about political resistance, and, most hauntingly, skulls and bones of victims found in a mass grave.
Next, we headed up the hill to Addis Ababa City University. There, we looked at the history of the city. There was a lot about Emperor Menelik II and Empress Taitu, the couple that founded Addis Ababa and moved the capital there. There was some really cool art and pictures of Addis over the years.
It was also in a beautiful spot overlooking Meskel Square, the center of Addis Ababa, which lent itself to some fantastic photos and a couple new profile pictures!
For lunch, we went to a rooftop restaurant. I got my usual Ethiopian food and discovered that my scalp had gotten sunburned. Ah, the joys of being white.
After lunch, we had a meeting set up with Ethiopian students who were interested in going to college in the United States. We had a presentation about Arcadia set up and then had a question and answer session with them. A ton of people all crammed into a tiny room to see us and it ended up being a really informative and fun time for all of us. We all got to exchange contact information at the end and we have been in contact with them since leaving.

We got to do a little souvenir shopping afterwards. I ran out of money very quickly and had to borrow from multiple different people in the group. Oops. Bad planning. I got some really good stuff to share with my family though, including coffee that my dad used to make a (delicious) stout beer. On the way home, we drove by the headquarters of the African Union.
That night, we went to dinner together. Three friends and I ordered dinner and shared our food all around.

The next day was our first time out of the city. We took a day trip to Ethiopia’s Grand Canyon, called Muger Gorge. The ride was long but fascinating. Addis Ababa is like any big city, with skyscrapers, lots of people, and modern technology. The suburbs, however, were anything but what we were used to. In fact, there were no suburbs. As soon as we left the city limits, it turned straight to rural. And I mean rural. With a few exceptions, it looked largely as it would have centuries ago. Some people were wearing modern clothes and there were shops with things like Pepsi and laptops, but it was clear that the majority of the people there were farmers and the entire community seemed to be living a very agrarian lifestyle. So much so that they were still using donkey-pulled wagons as their main mode of transportation. Here are some pictures from the drive:
Once we got to the Gorge, we ordered food and then took a hike around. We went to the Portuguese Bridge, where we took this picture:

And then we went a bit further and saw baboons! This is a picture that my friend Alura took since mine were terrible:
And here are some general pictures:
We ate traditional Ethiopian food for lunch and then headed to Debre Libanos Monastery, which is a very old church and monastery founded by Tekle Haymanot, a monk from the 13th century. We visited the museum but not the church, as there was a mass going on as we arrived. No pictures were allowed. This was also one of the strangest parts of the whole trip-because the area was extremely rural and brought little tourism outside of Ethiopia, the entire, entire village stopped what they were doing and just stared when a busload of white tourists piled out and walked across the village. We actually felt extremely disruptive, especially because we were interrupting an important mass during Lent. Seeing the monastery was very interesting but I could have done without the fishbowl-esque walk.
On the way back home, we ate some bananas we bought from a man on the side of the road. They were fantastic.
Another Debre Libanos-esque story: on the way back, we stopped on the side of the road to go to the bathroom. A group of us crossed the road and then couldn’t get back because a legitimately fifteen-minute long line of cars was driving past. Much like in Debre Libanos, everyone was very surprised to see white tourists on the side of the road and smiled and waved at us. We waved back…for fifteen minutes. We felt like the penguins in Madagascar-”smile and wave, boys, smile and wave.”
The next day was our last day in Ethiopia. We took another day trip outside of the city, this time to the town of Bishoftu and Lake Hora. If you remember the plane crash that happened on March 10, it was right near the town of Bishoftu. It was extremely tragic and provoked tangible grief that could be felt for the entire trip wherever we went in Ethiopia.
Lake Hora and Bishoftu is the site of a huge religious festival every year. The Oromo people, who live in the state surrounding Ethiopia, have their own religion and have this festival, called Irreecha (ir- “H” -ah”) every year. In 2016, political conflict between the Oromo, who have been historically oppressed, and the ruling political ethnic group, the Amhara, spilled over into this festival and caused a stampede and a massacre that killed many people. The official death toll is 50, but it is very likely that many more were killed and the government was trying to keep it under wraps so as to avoid more conflict. Another factor contributing to the different death tolls from different sources was the fact that the government shut down the internet for the days following the incident, again to avoid more protests. It was a horrible situation, one that was the culmination of many years of oppression and that symbolized the conflict between the two groups. Ethiopia just elected an Oromo prime minister, the first Oromo PM ever, and a lot of pressure is being put on him to solve the ethnic conflict that plagues the country today. Does any of this sound familiar? We learned about this festival and the events of the 2016 Irreecha back at Arcadia from someone who was actually there and then traveling to that spot was eerie but fascinating.
We first walked around Lake Hora. It was a beautiful day.
Then, we went to Koriftu Resort for lunch. My friend and roommate had gotten sick the day before and had to stay at the hotel and I was catching it. Another girl on the trip gave me anti-nausea meds (bless her heart) that solved the problem but unfortunately made me fall asleep after lunch instead of going canoeing on the lake like everyone else. I had a nice nap, though. After lunch, we rode back to the hotel and I again slept until we headed out to the Ghion Hotel, where we got to hear some live Ethiopian jazz. Ethiopian jazz is actually very famous and important to the culture of Ethiopia. It sounded a lot like American jazz, but…different. I recommend looking up some songs on Youtube and giving it a listen.
The next morning was an early one. We left the hotel at 5 in the morning and made the long trek back to Newark. The flight back seemed much shorter than the one there and I barely slept at all. I watched Bohemian Rhapsody twice and read a whole book, so I’d say it was a productive seventeen hours.
All in all, that week was one of the best in my whole life. As I hope is clear by now, I absolutely love traveling, learning, and EATING, so this week combined all my favorite things in one. If anyone ever has the chance to visit Ethiopia, I 110% recommend it. If you don’t have the opportunity, I 110% recommend finding an Ethiopian restaurant in your area and trying some of this food because it was addictively delicious and I’ve never tasted anything like it.
That’s it for me, thank you for reading this and I hope you all have a wonderful summer.